What Is Best Location for Temp Sensor for Electric Fan
Ok, I've got a 305 V8 that had a mechanical fan, but the PO wired an blower through a on-off switch in the cabin. I'm non keeping that. I'll blank out to turn information technology on.
I bought a JEGs thermostatically controlled rooter controller and I plan to install that. It uses a sensor that threads into a 3/8 larboard with a 3/4 adapter. The only when ports connected my motor are already used for the temp gauge and heater hose down.
Today I picked up a bizarre T-stat housing on CL that has a 3/4 port and the back of IT. I besides picked up an aluminum water pump from the same guy. when I got home base I completed that the heart has deuce 3/4 ports thereon as well. One is for the bulle hose, the strange is non in use.
Could I mount the coolant temp sensor for the fan and avoid the supernatural housing, or does the sensor need to be mounted up top?
I ran one in the unused pipe up-rib hole at the back of the rider-side head.
Except the headers kept cooking information technology.
Under the thermostat housing, like you show, would be fine.
Above the thermostat (as per most housings in 70's-up Chevy's) would mold too, since ~theoretically~ the thermostat would be opening before the buff turns connected. Except if the thermostat doesn't open, and you'll bring no fan.
Run the toggle switch in symmetrical, so you can finished-ride the regulator change over if you needed to.
I'm thinking, if you threaded into the pump, you'd be getting "cold" coolant from the rad. Which I guess the fan would ensure the coolant coming out of the rad would be really cold sufficient.
The most important thing is to try on to gaining control the hottest temperature of the coolant, so that it kicks on before the engine overheats.
snailmont5oh wrote: The almost important matter is to try to enamour the hottest temperature of the coolant, so that IT kicks on *before* the engine overheats.
In reality spell that's the best mode to install a temperature gauge sensor, for a fan switch, I think the best location is the radiator exit. The purpose of the fan is to boost airflow through the radiator if it's not reducing coolant temperature sufficiently. This placement responds to the airflow finished the radiator while the hottest point in the coolant system (usually right where the coolant exits the railway locomotive to attend the radiator) doesn't.
I put the fan switch sensor on my Samurai on the radiator pass, adjusted information technology so that it kicks in when the coolant temperature juuust edges above normal (when idling patc parked), and it seems to work well.
RossD UltimaDork
1/9/17 3:40 p.m.
In reply to GameboyRMH:
In terms of a well controlled system, I believe this is the best solution. Feedback before other noise is introduced.
My choices are thermoregulator housing or water pump, I don't have an acceptable port on the radiator itself. For packaging, i'd rather let it in the pump itself.
Water pump is a bad smirch, IMO unless you can get it right at the return port from the rad. T-stat housing (or a tee up in the high rad hose) is improve. A try-on in the lower rad hose would work too.
Get a radiator temp sensor sleeve. It's non actually called that. Simply it's what I use. Just use the tipto radiator hose. Set back the sleeve dear the thermostat. https://World Wide Web.amazon.com/Aluminum-Temperature-Sensor-Adapter-Silver-tongued/dp/B00FY3A2PG
I would say the temp rating of the switch will prescribe the best location. A deep rated switch would make the fan always represent on if located in coolant going to the rad, and wouldn't turn happening until you're already hot if it's a high temporary worker rated switch on the rad outlet.
Thinking about information technology, the factory e-fan switches in my Jeep are an interesting field of study in this. It used 2 switches, both activate at 210*. One is in the upper rad hose and turns the buff on "downhearted". The indorse is in the lower rad hose and turns the fan connected "high". That usually equates to about 210 - 212 on the standard of measurement when low kicks on and about 220 - 225 when piping kicks on.
pirate Subscriber
1/10/17 12:35 p.m.
I have my lover sensor in a billet aluminum radiator hose connector with a fitting hole in the bottom radiator return hose. The sensor turns the fan on and soured simply I have likewise wired a a sensing element overide then that I can turn the sports fan on and off manually. To make this work you need a ground wire so I bared the ground wire and inserted it between the billet aluminum connector and radiator hose. When hose clamped it is secured, tight and doesn't leak. Some radiators have a fitting hole next to the radiator drain which could also be used for the sensor. Don't know for sure but I think OEMs use this fitting hole for exciting fans.
I have my water temperature gauge sensor (electric gauges) in a fitting hole at the fore of the intake manifold paper which is probably the orbit of most coolant heat energy. Some cylinder heads besides deliver fitting holes for gauge temperature.
Well, here's where it aroused. in the new weird thermoregulator living accommodations just before the thermoregulator itself.
The switch is a 180 academic degree and will be paired with a 180 t-stat. I'm wait on some hoses and gaskets before I put it on the car, but it's ready to a-okay.
180 degree switch is too cold for a 180 t-stat. Fan volition kick on when it's warm and never shut hit. You ideally want a switch that turns along around 195 - 200, off about 5 degrees lower. That'll kick the fan on when the t-stat reaches fully nonunion and shut in information technology off when things cool a bit (so the fan will cycles/second while seated still and normally South Korean won't run on the main road).
It's actually 185 connected, 170 off. Says it's designed for use up with a 180 T-stat.
AClockworkGarage wrote: Information technology's actually 185 along, 170 off. Says it's designed for use with a 180 T-stat.
Yeah, that's definitely too cold. It'll kick on once the car is warmed up and then conscionable stay happening. You'll never start to the 170 shut polish off point. Don't forget, the t-stat starts to out-of-doors at 180, it's not in full barefaced until about 195.
My analog system used an Auto M temperature switch, which was in reality for an oil temp light. Information technology turned along at 210° and inactive at 185°. The switch was on the ground side of the relay, and I had a separate ground route through a manual switch so that I could force the sports fan on for high rut-soak situations (90° autocross days), but temp would turn it connected if I forgot, surgery in normal situations.
What Is Best Location for Temp Sensor for Electric Fan
Source: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/where-does-my-fan-sensor-go/125354/page1/
